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Tavë Kosi arrives at the table with a puffed, golden crown of yogurt that slowly collapses as it cools, revealing tender lamb chunks and soft rice beneath, all bound in a custard that is tangy, slightly eggy, and nothing like a standard yogurt sauce. This is Albania's national dish, and it is claimed by Elbasan, the central city that has been making it in earthenware tavë pans since at least the Ottoman era—the city once styled itself "the city of Tavë Kosi," so thoroughly was the dish identified with the place. The magic lies in using full-fat yogurt and getting the egg ratio right: too few eggs and the custard never sets, too many and it becomes rubbery and separates. After baking, let it rest ten minutes before serving; it continues to set and the flavors deepen as it cools slightly.
Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and garlic, and sauté until soft and translucent.
Add the lamb chunks and cook until browned on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set aside.
In a small pot, bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Add the rice and a pinch of salt. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the rice is cooked, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the Greek yogurt, eggs, flour, dried oregano, dried mint, and a pinch of salt. Mix until smooth.
In a large baking dish, spread the cooked rice in an even layer. Place the browned lamb chunks on top of the rice.
Pour the yogurt mixture over the lamb and rice, spreading it evenly.
Dot the top with small pieces of butter.
Bake in the preheated oven for about 45-50 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the mixture is set.
Allow the Tavë Kosi to cool slightly before serving. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.
Tavë Kosi is a one-dish meal of lamb chunks and rice baked under a custard made from full-fat yogurt, eggs, flour, and dried mint. The yogurt mixture sets in the oven to a creamy, slightly firm topping that is both tangy and savory, quite unlike a typical yogurt sauce.
Tavë Kosi originates from Elbasan, a central Albanian city that has been making it since at least the Ottoman period, though the dish now belongs to all of Albania. Elbasan takes such pride in tavë kosi that the city was historically called "the city of Tavë Kosi," and every restaurant there claims its own signature preparation.
The dish requires lamb, onions, garlic, olive oil, rice, full-fat Greek yogurt, eggs, flour, dried mint, and dried oregano. Butter adds richness, and fresh parsley garnishes the finished dish. The proportions of yogurt and eggs are critical to achieving the proper custard texture.
Use full-fat, unsweetened yogurt and ensure you have enough eggs to set the custard properly without making it rubbery—the mixture should be pourable before going into the oven but should set to a light, creamy texture. Allow the finished dish to rest for ten minutes after removing from the oven; it continues to set during this time and becomes easier to portion.
Tavë Kosi is rich and complete on its own, but many Albanians serve it with a simple green salad dressed lightly with oil and vinegar, or with crusty bread to soak up the sauce. Pickled vegetables like turnips or peppers provide a sharp contrast to the richness of the dish.