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Osso buco means 'bone with a hole,' and the hollow of that bone—packed with bone marrow—is what the Milanese consider the best part, eaten last with a small spoon while the braising liquid has reduced around the shanks. The veal is cut crosswise through the leg so the marrow stays enclosed during the long braise in white wine, broth, and soffritto until the meat releases from the bone with a fork. Gremolata—raw lemon zest, garlic, and flat-leaf parsley—is scattered over just before serving, cutting through the richness of the marrow and braised meat with brightness and bite. The canonical pairing is risotto alla Milanese—saffron-yellow and equally rich—so the meal becomes one elaborate Milanese statement.
Pat the veal shanks dry with paper towels and season them with salt and pepper.
Dredge each shank in flour, shaking off any excess.
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat.
Add the veal shanks and brown them on all sides, about 3-4 minutes per side. Remove the shanks from the pot and set aside.
In the same pot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
Add the chopped onion, diced carrots, and diced celery. Cook until the vegetables are softened, about 5-7 minutes.
Stir in the minced garlic and cook for another minute.
Pour in the dry white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
Add the diced tomatoes, beef or chicken broth, bay leaf, dried thyme, and dried rosemary.
Return the veal shanks to the pot, submerging them in the liquid.
Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for about 1.5 to 2 hours, or until the meat is tender and falling off the bone.
In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, finely chopped parsley, and minced garlic.
Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if needed.
Remove the bay leaf from the pot.
Serve the Osso Buco hot, garnished with the gremolata. Accompany with risotto, polenta, or mashed potatoes.
Braised veal shank with bone marrow (the 'hole' in the bone). Milan's winter classic; gremolata goes on top before serving.
Milan, Lombardy. Documented in Milanese cookbooks since the 19th century as a celebratory winter dish.
Veal shank (cross-cut), white wine, broth, soffritto, gremolata (lemon zest + garlic + parsley).
Tie the shanks with kitchen twine so the meat does not fall off the bone mid-braise. Serve in the braising pan for drama.
Risotto alla Milanese (saffron risotto)—the canonical pairing. Drink Nebbiolo or Barbera d'Asti.